Repair Services & Pricing.
My goal is to provide the highest-quality repair work available anywhere.
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I know that my prices are higher than some of my competitors, but I feel that my extra service and quality warrants the extra expense. This idea is reinforced by my customers through their numerous compliments and repeat business. I take great pride in my work, and continue to strive for higher standards. This tactic of continuous improvement allows me to regularly exceed my customer’s expectations.
A significant portion of my business consists of repairing watches where others have failed. Even if you have been told that a watch cannot be fixed due to lack of parts (or any other reason), I encourage you to contact me with your problem. The successful repair of these types of watches is fairly common for me. Cleaning a watch is probably the most common procedure a watchmaker performs. However, not all cleanings are alike. The best watchmakers agree that the only way to properly clean a watch is to completely disassemble it. If it is not disassembled, dirt and old oil can remain in the jewels, and worn pivots cannot be detected. Some watchmakers cut corners and save time by not doing so, and therefore can charge lower prices for their services. However, the quality of the work, the reliability, and the timekeeping all suffer accordingly. I feel that it is better to spend $800 wisely on a quality job than to waste $200 on something that you are not happy with, and then have to spend an additional $800 to make it right. Truth is, I run into this situation quite frequently. General Cleaning and Adjusting General Cleaning and Adjusting - $500. Includes complete disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication of the movement. Watches are timed electronically in all positions to achieve accurate and reliable timekeeping. With my state of the art timing machine, I am able to look at balance amplitude and beat errors, parameters which most watchmakers ignore. These additional diagnostics help increase overall reliability and accuracy. Cases are cleaned and polished. The price shown is for standard movements - high jewel pocketwatches, calendars, automatics, etc. are more expensive. I specialize in vintage Rolex repair, which is normally $1000 and up. Repairs on later Rolex watches usually include a new crystal, crown, tube, and back gasket so that the case seals properly. I have access to many hard-to-find and obsolete parts for older Rolex models, including bubblebacks. I am not affiliated with Rolex. Chronograph repair costs vary according to the condition, grade, and movement. Lower-grade 2 register chronos run about $800, and high-grade three register models (such as Breitling) are in the $1200 range. The above prices do not include parts. A good ballpark figure for an average parts requirement is about $75. Early Rolex automatics, such as bubblebacks and transitional (1950's) bubblebacks, sometimes require parts in excess of $300. Railroad grade pocket watches are about $550. I generally don’t like to do partial repairs (for example, just replacing a crystal), as it makes warranty issues difficult. Say, for example, you just need a crown replaced. Imagine, after I replace the crown, that the watch doesn’t run properly, or doesn’t set properly, or the hands bind, etc. This leaves me in a bad position. Furthermore, if one of these problems comes up 1 month after I replace the crown, I can’t give you a warranty on something that I didn’t fix (and didn’t charge you for, either). So, partial repairs don’t come with a meaningful warranty, other than specifically to the part that I replaced. Click here to see more pictures of my work 
Dial Refinishing
Dial refinishing starts at $200. This is for most standard re-dials. Two-tone dials, chronographs, and luxury brands are more expensive. Dials really can't be 'cleaned' or touched up in any way. Dials generally have a clear coat of lacquer to protect them, and over time this lacquer can turn yellow or crack, allowing moisture to oxidize the metal underneath. The yellow color can't be cleaned away without removing the lacquer and print entirely. 
In essence, dial refinishing is kind of like stripping and repainting a car. The dial is stripped down to the bare brass, and then either painted or plated for the background color, and then printed. Many dials also have 'raised figures' where the numbers or markers sit above the dial. These figures can either be 'applied' (which are separate little pieces that are pinned to the dial), or simply 'raised' which are stamped and are permanently attached to the dial.
After the dials have been stripped and the background color applied, the rest of the markings are printed. This is done with a stamping process, so sometimes a specific font style won't be reproduced exactly. This can be one of the compromises in dial refinishing. Understand that dial refinishing is a good option for dials in poor condition. However, you should have realistic expectations - even an excellent redial can usually be distinguished from an original dial (especially by someone who is experienced). It can be a good solution, and generally people are very satisfied with the results. If your original dial has some small imperfection or scratch, it is almost always better to leave it alone rather to have it refinished. Be sure to check out the 'restoration photos' section for some more before/after photos of dials that were refinished. 
Crystals
Crystals for vintage watches were generally plastic or glass. Usually, round crystals were plastic, and are a friction/compression-type fit. Non-round (‘fancy’ shaped) crystals were either plastic or glass, and are usually glued in. I generally use glass for all fancy shapes due to its clarity. I prefer plastic for round watches, though, as that is what most of them were designed to take. I can also supply round glass crystals when appropriate (mostly for open-faced pocket watches and some dress wristwatches). Here's a comparison of plastic vs. glass on a fancy-shaped crystal. You can see the distortion of the print at the edges of the plastic crystal. (Click on image to enlarge). Click here to see more pictures of my work
Payment Terms Payment is due when the work is complete. I generally do not require any deposit up-front. You can pay using PayPal, or you can pay directly with a Visa or MasterCard (not American Express). You can also pay by check, money order, or Zelle. Miscellaneous There is an $85 minimum for any work done. However, this figure does not apply to estimates. Inquire for pricing on other repair services including repivoting, staff making and parts manufacturing. Turnaround time is generally 2-3 months, but this varies considerably depending on what needs to be done and my current workload. For a good selection of some of the nicest watchstraps available, check out Bob Davis' site www.mywatchmaker.net I do not repair any watch that uses a battery (quartz, Accutrons, Hamilton Electrics, etc) , I only repair mechanical timepieces. If you have questions or require services not listed, please call or e-mail with your needs. There will be a 2% finance charge per month on all jobs that are not paid for within 30 days (this applies to the date your watch is completed, not the date it is sent in). Warranty All work comes with a 1 year warranty. This covers most problems, but water-resistance and/or abuse is not guaranteed. There is more information on water-resistance under FAQs. Shipping Instructions Shipping instructions are under FAQs. |